A good rule of thumb here is to cut your arrow off where the end is slightly past the arrow rest mounting hole on your riser. I prefer for my arrow shaft to be a minimum of 1 inch past my arrow rest launcher arm at full draw. Make sure you are shooting the proper arrow spine for your bow and point weight by referring to the arrow chart on the box your arrows came in.
Or, look it up on the internet. Keep in mind when you lengthen an arrow or increase point weight you decrease the arrow spine. And when you shorten your arrow or decrease your point weight, you increase your arrow spine. I also prefer a limb-driven rest like the Smack Down Pro, where the control cord attaches to the limb of the bow and not one that ties into your cable system.
The cord can and will create drag on the cable it is tied into. You can also have issues of it slipping on the cable it is tied to. The limb-driven rest causes no drag on your cable or string system, plus the limb-driven rest picks up the launcher arm much faster and drops it much faster, which gives you optimal rest clearance for your arrow.
My next step is to shoot the bow about 20 to 30 times at point-blank range into my bag target with a field point. This helps to set and seat the strings and cables before you start your tuning process. The next step is to make sure your tuning shaft has the exact same point weight as your broadhead and is the exact same length from nock to tip as your arrows with your broadhead attached. There are two types of paper tuning for a bow. One is tuning with a bare shaft, and the other is with a fletched shaft.
I prefer a bare-shaft test, and the reason being is if your bow will shoot a bullet hole with a bare shaft, it should shoot any point accurately as long as it weighs the same and spins straight. The less the fletching on your arrows have to correct arrow flight at launch, the quicker your arrow will recover, and the straighter it will fly. If you get a bullet hole with a bare shaft but you get a tear with a fletched shaft, you are getting contact somewhere in the launch cycle.
This is something that often frustrates the average guy who is doing his or her own tuning. You think you have a tuning issue, when in reality you have a fletching contact issue.
Not all drop-away rests truly drop away in time. It is also possible for a fletched arrow tune to be slightly less than perfect due to the much larger hole a fletched shaft creates in the paper. A bare-shaft bullet hole does not lie. Another great new feature of the Evolved Cam system is that it has a floating yoke system on both cams to balance and control cam lean. Cam lean has always been an issue with binary-cam systems without a yoke system to adjust them.
Uncontrolled cam lean will result in not being able to tune the bow properly, and if severe enough, it will cause the bow to derail at draw or after the shot. The only cure for this condition is to shim or move the cams left or right by having to completely disassemble the bow. This can be tricky even for some bow techs. Once the bow shoots a bare shaft properly, I attach my sights and stabilizer and any other accessories to my bow. I then sight-in my fletched shaft with field point at 20 yards, and then I pull that arrow and mark the hole with a piece of tape.
Next, I shoot the bare shaft at the exact same point of aim as the fletched shaft. I then mark that spot and shoot my broadhead, making sure it spins straight first. It is not wise to shoot multiple carbon arrows at the exact same spot, especially with broadheads. Once your bow will shoot a bare shaft, fletched shaft and broadhead on a fletched shaft to the same point of aim at 20 yards, your bow is tuned. The next step is to fine tune your sights with your broadheads at different yardages.
I shoot one pin sighted-in at 25 yards, and with my setup it gives me a plus or minus 1-inch margin of error from 0 to 33 yards.
Anytime you change anything on your bow, you must retune, no matter how simple you think the change may be. I contacted Kris Wall, a well-known bow tech in the Athens area and regular contributor and problem solver at the Woodys web board forum. A bare shaft has zero steering from the front and the rear, while a fletched broadhead shaft has steering from both the front and the back. You may ask how they behave the same then.
A fletched broadhead that comes out of the bow the same way, point right, nock left, will also continue to plane to the right because wind from the front of the arrow is pushing the broadhead in that direction. The fletching can correct some of it, but not all of it, if the bow is out of tune.
So, I prefer bare-shaft tuning to get the arrow coming out of the bow as straight as possible.
Search Advanced search…. From: Liz the Squeak Date: 11 Nov 07 - AM Scrump - if you're still watching this thread - It is entirely possible that they do sing Gatling burst, a Gatling being one of the first available types of machine gun. It implies that children with significantly low intelligence may not learn to read. Suggest an example. PDF Edition. The process of police transformation in societies undergoing transition is an issue of some importance.
I do like to keep my speeds in the to fps range for fixed heads. That seems to be a great, manageable speed to keep things shooting well with fixed heads.
The impact almost knocked him off his feet as the big boar hog let out a muffled grunt and went tearing out of there. The flashing green lighted knock sticking out of his shoulder reminded me of a lightning bug you see in the summer time. I sat back down in my climber and was thinking to myself, that hog had some big teeth and man that was a big animal.
I waited a good 30 minutes before I got down and took up the track.
As soon as I got to the feeder I could see the lighted nock flashing, so I went straight to it to start my track job and the blood sign was unbelievable. I took out my phone and videoed the recovery from there, which was not far. You can watch the recovery on the Facebook page for Bipolar Broadheads. Keep me signed in. Forgot your username or password? Create your account now! Create an account and enter your subscriber number to get your subscriber-only benefits. The procedure in this article is how I personally set up my new bow. These tuning lines are also a PSE exclusive and are a great starting point to tune your bow.
It took a total of four shots to tune my new bow. Never shoot a broadhead on a bare shaft!
Like Like. People can find a diagnosis of dyslexia reassuring, as an answer to a puzzle that concerns them, and also useful in that they can be given more support, and more time to complete written exams. Rather, teachers see it as a way to come up with more appropriate strategies to use with that child, and to gain the additional support that the child might need. Thank you for your comments. Your anecdote of the hospital consultant resonates! I too, know such people. In fact, not too many months ago, I was at dinner with a group of medical people — consultants and GPs — who either had a diagnosis of dyslexia themselves, or it had been applied to a member of their family.
We had a very interesting discussion. The consensus was that the term had been helpful for the self-esteem of the person concerned.
However, there was also agreement that it would have been a better outcome had the person actually been taught to read and spell competently. Why give someone a fish when they can be taught to fish for themselves? The piece also makes it clear that some people find reading more difficult than others. I do make the argument that, with effective teaching, at the earliest stage possible, additional time and supports can become unnecessary. The expectations were so low but, when these students were taught to read, their confidence and self-esteem grew, they were able to access the curriculum independently and they learned that they could be good at learning.
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